A Detour Inland

The honeymoon phase is over. We’re back to slumming it in guest houses like Ghetto Life Lodge (it lived up to its name) and celebrating when there is running water and/or electricity. The formerly decently paved road disintegrates more and more and the kids get beggier again. The wind agrees with us that life was nicer further north and tries to blow us back there.

But we have ordered some new chains at a bike shop in Lilongwe. Hence we strain the thighs a bit more than lately and do some bigger days. Before turning inland to the capital we stay at a guesthouse where the rooms are named after countries currently at war like Israel, Palestine, Ukraine and (our favorite) Rasher. We’re not sure why Poland is in there too, but at least it’s spelled correctly.

On our sweaty cycle up the hill we stop at the Chill Spot Restaurant for lunch. Goat stew and beans won’t be ready for another hour, so the chef whips us up some omelette and rice while we chat with the beer-drinking chief of police. A little bit further up the road his buddies are collecting bribes from truck drivers alongside people who want to sell us their live chickens and grilled mice on a spit. What a pity that we just had food.

After some more sweating we reach the main highway into town. Four lanes + a bicycle lane (to our delight) lead into… not exactly a bustling metropolis. The city seems weirdly spread out. Lots of wasteland and walls with razor wire fence. At Kaza Kitchen we are just in time for our date with some pancakes, quesadillas and to meet Filly – the owner.

She has a soft spot for grimy cyclists and invites us back for their first ever game night that evening. With our bellies full and our hearts warmed we cycle further into town, set up the tent at the campsite, monkey proof everything and go on to the bike shop. Jabu – the mechanic – checks out some issues with Jo’s gears and equips us with enough chains to last until Namibia.

The shop also stocks cheap bike gloves. As much as we loved our gardening ones we happily trade up again. The little bit of palm padding feels very luxurious and we can finally work on the finger tan again. The next item on our city-sorting-out-list is at the immigration bureau. We only have a 30-day visitor permit and need to request an extension as we are planning to stay a little longer.

While Ben guards the bikes Lina winds her way through the crowds outside and inside. It’s underwear sales day and everyone seems to be distracted by the potential for bargains, including the immigration officers. One of them spares just enough time to extend our visas until September. Thanks goes to Nikey, Adedas and probably China.

In the evening we enjoy some more nice food and chat with people over juice, carrot cake and games. Filly insists on driving us and the bikes back to the campsite. Even though we are sure that it’s fine to cycle here at night we accept. It’s nice to be mothered sometimes. It might also have been the right call, since she spots a hyena on her way back. Of course all we get to see on the way there is a suicidal hedgehog dashing out in front of the car.

The next day we take it easy with a visit to the wildlife centre. On our stroll there we read lots of warning signs about crocodiles but don’t see a single one. After our trip to the supermarket (the shopping basket looked like that of a child) we head back to camp to fend off the vervet monkeys trying to eat the rubbish and have some Indian food for dinner.

In the cool of the next morning, after one more standoff with the monkeys, we head off again. Our legs would have appreciated another day off but we know they will get plenty of rest soon enough. We’re heading towards the lake again. We want to spend some time with a Warmshowers host in Cape Maclear where we might be able to volunteer for a week or two.

But before we head down from the plateau once more, we work in another detour to a small slightly cultish looking missionary town. We take a day off there to hike up Nkhoma mountain. At the top we enjoy our usual “Gipfelapfel” (peak apple) as well as expansive views of the dirt roads crisscrossing a myriad of little villages. We wonder what life is like down there. Far far in the distance we see lake Malawi flowing into the horizon.