Western Kenya

Though the locals we meet are divided on the subject, we’re positive that the rainy season has started. There is a shower almost every afternoon and we’ve gotten soaked a couple of times. But because it’s still warm (25-30 degrees) and we have waterproof panniers, we don’t mind. When the dark clouds begin to encroach we change into shorts and sandals. And to the tune of Brown Girl in the Ring (by Boney M.) – which we adapted to Drowned Cats in the Rain – we splash through puddles and breathe in the fresh air.

The campsites we stay at often come with dogs. Some are friendly, some less so, all are very happy to pee on our tent. One night we wake up at 2am to find that one of Lina’s sandals has disappeared. At first we suspect monkeys but the night guard tells us about the neighbor’s dogs who prey on innocent shoes. Lina resigns herself to buying some shit flip flops before snuggling back into the sleeping bag. But only 10 minutes later the guard returns with the sandal unharmed. What a roller coaster ride of emotions.

The two most noteworthy stops en route to the Ugandan border are Kakamega Forest – where we spot colobus monkeys, hornbills and lots of butterflies – and Saiwa Swamp National Park. In the latter we pitch our tent next to a highway of ants and then go for a walk hoping to glimpse the elusive swamp-dwelling Sitatunga antelope – or, as we call it: The Swampelope. And we’re in luck. After seeing many butts quickly retreating into the reeds at the sound of our footsteps we finally come face to face with this pretty (and surprisingly chubby) animal. We also meet the supposedly shy de brazza’s Monkey – or as we call it: The Confucius Monkey.

We wish we knew more about ornithology, since this seems like a birder’s paradise. As it stands we just point out “Big Bird… Green Bird… Ugly Crane”. One bird we will always remember though is the extremely noisy Kenyan Seagull – or, as it’s really called: Ibis.

Since we’re getting to the end of our Kenya chapter it’s time to reflect a bit on this incredibly varied country. From the bustling streets of Nairobi, over the temperate highlands around Mount Kenya and the arid north to the tropical west, this country has it all. And we didn’t even see the coast or the beaches of Malindi.

Aside from the stone-wielding kids in the north, the people have been incredibly friendly and welcoming – much more so than in Europe. We smile and wave a hundred times a day, at children and adults alike. We even had small photo sessions with some and a kid approaching us to “make some white friends”. Handshakes and fist bumps are ubiquitous and everyone proudly tells us about their home village.

Ben’s favorite snack has been strawberry-flavored Oreos and yoghurt. Lina prefers cheap supermarket muffins, crisps (as always) and peanut butter straight from the jar. This trip is definitely not helping her coke addiction or Ben’s love for shoveling in huge amounts of food. Lots of travelers complain about the food in sub-Saharan Africa. But we love ourselves some nice beans and lentils with rice, cabbage and chapati (halfway between a tortilla and a pancake) for 70 cents.

The one thing we will not miss are the rumble strips. Along with speed bumps (and instead of speed limits) they are supposed to slow down traffic in populated areas. But they are not doing their job. While the matatus and boda bodas just rush over them unruffled, we wince and flinch at every meeting and feel sorry for Jo and Olive. We pray to the god of cycling that this is just a Kenyan thing.

Now, armed with our printed visa confirmation letter and lots of patience for bureaucratic procedures, we head west for the Ugandan border. One country down, about 11 to go.