Western Uganda

One last time we’re heading north to check out a forest where chimpanzees live and a crater lake region. We kick things off with 105km and 1200m elevation gain. We still feel the echo of our biggest day yet for a few days afterwards. Our legs and butts are as sore as they were in the first week and we’re compelled to take it easy for a while.

We have added sunscreen to the list of things we shouldn’t skimp on (along with fresh juice and street food). Though we’re in a very touristy area now it is hard to come by. In one town we finally find 100ml for 12 euros. At least it’s spf 60. Well worth it since we started to notice that Lina is tanning through her sun hoodie.

Around Kibale National Park we feel like normal tourists again. Lots of hassle from potential tour guides, but also a beautifully overgrown and derelict boardwalk through a swamp and monkeys and birds all around. We’ve decided not to go chimp or gorilla trekking (about 400 dollars and 1100 dollars respectively) and to save our pennies for nice accommodation. It would be amazing to see these fascinating animals but we’re put off by all the hustling.

Instead we cycle slowly through the lush rainforest in the hope that the chimp family is on the side of the road that is not as green as the other. The universe misunderstood though and sends us baboons instead. Still, we never say no to hanging out with baboons. A little while later we are definitely 100% sure that the noise we’re hearing in the bushes is a chimp imitating a bird.

By now we’ve talked to enough Ugandans to realize that they are very content in general. One evening we get to chatting with three other guests at a guesthouse. Davis, Moses and Chrispus treat us to a Nile Special. This is a beer you’re supposed to drink at the source of the Nile, so we’re only about a week late. They tell us all about how Uganda is amazing because you never go hungry. Sure, they admit, it gets harder if you need medical care or have to pay school fees, but there is always food. Low expectations truly are the key to happiness.

These days we are continuing our rocky relationship with the kids. On one particularly hilly mud road we are going past a group of them and suddenly cycling feels way easier. The little ones are laughing as they push us up the hill. At this point we’re wary of such kindness and sure enough… at some point Ben realizes that one of the kids has opened his bike pannier and is rummaging around inside. Some stern words send them packing, thankfully everything is still there.

Though the mud roads are taking quite a toll on our bikes and usually mean type two fun for us they eventually lead us to picturesque crater lakes. One night we pitch our tent on a hilltop with a sweeping view of one of the lakes and the Rwenzori mountains. We even take a dip since it’s one of the few in east Africa that is free of the parasite that causes Bilharzia. So, no new worm friends but at least Ben makes a leech friend.

The amazing views continue at our second camp in this area. Here we meet Jonas from Austria who is volunteering and helping out with farming. And we enjoy a game of Star Realms (the one game we brought along) with him and Eric from the US and Alice from Uganda. Eric and Alice live in Thailand and after chatting with them for a while we’re already making plans for our next trip to Southeast Asia.

The next day we brave the mud again. Since it has been raining on and off the roads have acquired the consistency of peanut butter and the mud has caked the tires so much that we have to push them for a few kilometers before getting back onto tarmac. We might have to modify the mudguards a little to prepare for Rwanda and Burundi so they don’t trap as much peanut butter.

After the hills of the crater lake region we are glad when the terrain becomes flatter again as we turn south for good. Today we cross the equator one last time on wheels. Next time will be in a few months and by plane. We enter Queen Elisabeth National Park and are promptly cosying up to buffaloes and even an elephant. The latter contact is a bit closer than we’d like but it seems to be a gentle giant heading past us on the road towards the next village.

Since it’s close to Easter, Lina’s favorite Easter bunny songs (by Rolf Zuckowski) are playing on repeat in our heads. Ben is especially thrilled by that. Since Lina’s birthday is also coming up, we’re treating ourselves to an early present – a night at a game lodge where we’re expecting to witness the real life parade from the lion king movie right outside our window. If we’re especially lucky we might repeat the experience of other tourists who were trampled on by an antelope with a lion on its tail. Fingers crossed.